Issue 38, March / April 2001

“[T]he speedy advance of technological wizardry, or the Web, is both dubious and vulnerable. It is now less of a secret that dot-com mergers and dot-com economics are not enough to satisfy the deeper cravings in our souls.” — “Editor’s Box”

Essays by John Jeremiah Sullivan, Susan Sontag, Cynthia Shearer, and Rebecca Bengel. Fiction by Andrea Lee and Aleda Shirley.

Other contributors include Marty Stuart, James Carlos Blake, Brad Watson, J.E. Pitts, and more.



Charmed Lives
The making of a travel editor; a person whose work is vacationing
By Thomas Swick


Postcards from the Fair
Cakewalks, horse races, a midway—Neshoba County, Mississippi, might be heaven.
By Kevin Canty


Far from the Madding Utopia
The experimental commune of Rugby, Tennessee, lives on.
By Cynthia Shearer


Good-bye Yellow Brick Road
The Land of Oz park was a magical place atop a North Carolina mountain.
By Rebecca Bengal


Short Stories


A young urbanite searches for her rural roots.
By Andrea Lee


The Interior West
The Twilight Motel in Tucumcari, New Mexico. . .could this be home?
By Aleda Shirley





Local Fare


Paris Through Yam-Colored Glasses
Chez Haynes was once the heart of the black expatriate community in France.
By John T. Edge


Traveling Dangerously


From Zaire with Love
Dodging bullets and drinking beer with nuns.
By Ken Wells




The Hollow Men
Mysterious cave paintings in Tennessee.
By John Jeremiah Sullivan




Favorite Destinations
Southern notables’ must-see recommendations.


Road Trip


Truck Stop Heaven
The Red Hot served the best coffee on the road.
By Marty Stuart


He wanted to get to the girl quickly.
By James Carlos Blake


Take Off the Blindfold, My Friend. . . .
In search of the future with roadside physics.
By Brad Watson


Natural History


Puc Puggy in Xanadu
Exploring Florida’s St. Johns River.
By Bill Belleville


Lost Classics


Homage to Halliburton
The adventuring Southerner Richard Halliburton was a lasting literary influence.
By Susan Sontag


The Last Great Traveler
On Halliburton’s Royal Road to Romance. 
By Evan S. Connell




An Editor at Large
The Southern education of one of the founders of modernism.
By Christopher Sawyer-Lauçanno


Book Views


Invisible Cities
A real guide to some unreal places.
By Michael Dirda


Southern Music


Ebony Silhouette
Afternoons with the late Milt Hinton.
By Tom Piazza




Dealer’s Choice
By Hal Crowther


Gone Off Up North
By Roy Blount Jr.




Widow of the Flatlands
By J. E. Pitts


Cape Cod Evening, 1939
By Claude Wilkinson


Letters from John Hardin to Miss Ara Boggs
By Miles Garett Watson


Cover photo by Anthony Gordon. Model: Martina Gordon (NY Models)