FRIED GREEN DIASPORA: Northeast Barbecue
The pièce de résistance was, fittingly, a slow-roasted pig, tended by as many dads as could fit around the pit, each holding a beer or two. Once the pig had succumbed to the smoldering embers, the dads would painstakingly pick it apart (saving, I am sure, the best parts as cooks’ treats) and serve the meat with an array of sweet, spicy, and tangy sauces.
Department: Kate Williams
