Issue 49, Spring 2005

Issue 49, Spring 2005

Southern Food Vol. I — guest-edited by John T. Edge

“What should emerge from this bacchanal is a sense of how and why what we eat and drink matters.” — John T. Edge

Featuring a previously unpublished essay by Carson McCullers. “Odes” by Padgett Powell, Molly Giles, Donald Harington, Steve Almond, Yusef Komunyakaa, Joshua Foer, and more. Notes by Duncan Murrell and Pete Wells. Essays by Gary Hawkins, Lolis Eric Elie, David Ramsey, Barbara Ensrud, and more.

Other contributors include Debbie Fleming Caffery, Blair Hobbs, Jonathan Reynolds, Anne Mendelson, and others.


Columns & Departments

Guest Editor’s Box
A WORTHY CAUSE
by John T. Edge
Writing—and fighting—about food.

MESSAGES FROM THE FRONT
Cliff’s Meat Market, Squirrel hunting, and more
with Wells Tower, Keith O'Brien, Lawrence Wilson, John T. Edge, Jeff Baker 

Meditations
THE ENDURANCE OF SOUTHERN FOOD
by John Egerton

Meditations
SITTING DOWN TO EAT
by Bernard LaFayette, Jr.

Gone Off Up North
ONE MAN'S FRIED MEAT
by Roy Blount, Jr.

In Florida
SPANISH DIXIE 
by Diane Roberts

Field Notes
ANIMAL FARMING 
by Pete Wells

Field Notes
PIG SINS: A LOVE STORY
by Duncan Murrell

Field Notes
STRANGE FRUIT
by Ben Phelan

Meditations
FREE OKRA
by Siddhartha Mitter

Sense of Place
SUGARCANE HARVESTING (SOUTHWEST LOUISIANA) 
photographs by Debbie Fleming Caffery

Horticulture
DEVIL’S CLAW
by William Woys Weaver

The Future
HOLA, ARKANSAS!
by Edward Carpenter

In South Carolina
LOWCOUNTRY GOLD RUSH
by John Martin Taylor

Cookbooks
HAUTE CLEMENTINE
by Sara Roahen

Cookbooks
THE BLACK PRESENCE
by Lolis Eric Elie

Writing on Writing
GLOSSY SOUTH
by Anne Mendelson

Writing on Writing
EDIBLE COMPLEX
by Jonathan Reynolds

Writing on Writing
FAULKNER’S TASTE FOR WINE
by Barbara Ensrud

Dealer’s Choice
THE OTHER APPETITE
by Hal Crowther

The Moviegoer
JUST ONE MORE
(Larry Brown, 1951–2004)
by Gary Hawkins

The Moviegoer
PUTTING A BOTTOM UNDER IT
by Tom Rankin

Southern Scenes
MARSHALL, NORTH CAROLINA
photograph by Debbie Fleming Caffery


Features

COOKS IN THE KITCHEN
Celebrity Chefs Reveal Their Southern Food Passions
interviews by Emily Witt

THE GREAT EATERS OF GEORGIA
A Previously Unpublished Essay
by Carson McCullers

GOOD TIMES
by Lewis Nordan

THROUGH THE PAST, (SORT OF) DARKLY
by Paul Reyes

SOME LIKE IT EXTRA HOT
Adventures in masochistic dining at Prince's Hot Chicken Shack
by David Ramsey

EVERYBODY LOVES THE COLONEL
by Silas House
How fried chicken saved my family.


Odes

ICE 
by Padgett Powell

ARKANSAS EATS 
by Molly Giles

CHICKEN & DUMPLINGS 
by Donald Harington

FIGS 
by Eugene Walter

MANNA 
by Andrew Hudgins

COTTON CANDY 
by Steve Almond

LOWCOUNTRY BOIL 
by James Alan McPherson

RACCOON 
by Yusef Komunyakaa

NEW ORLEANS HAMBURGERS 
by Brett Anderson

BOILED PEANUTS 
by Michael Griffith

YOUR DEKALB FARMERS MARKET
by Joshua Foer

HANGOVER CURES
by George Singleton

BUTTERMILK
by John Fleer

CHICKEN-FRIED STEAK
by Dennis Covington

FEEDING STRAYS
by George Kirius

RAW MEATS
by Dr. Sammy Ray 
(as told to Robb Walsh)

PRAISE WINE
by John Simpkins


Poetry

UNFILLED DESIRE
by Andrew Hudgins

OTIS, HIS FORBIDDEN ’CUE: HELOTES, TEXAS
by Jake Adam York

FALLING FOR MY HUSBAND
by Blair Hobbs

ASPARAGUS
by Marck L. Beggs


Cover: "Stop and Eat" by Allison V. Smith