Osayi Endolyn is deputy editor of Gravy at the Southern Foodways Alliance. Her work has appeared in Eater, Atlanta Magazine, the Bitter Southerner, Tales of the Cocktail, and elsewhere. She is working on a book about the West African origins of American cuisine.
A kind of connective tissue linked my country’s most African city with an African moment that seemed stunningly American. The pallbearers danced, the band played, the mourners walked and swayed alongside while men and women pressed yet more naira bills on the sweat of our bodies—a symbol of respect and goodwill.