THE OA MANUAL OF GOOD TASTE

Recovering a lost cuisine.

A few years ago, in Los Angeles’ primordial past, herds of taco trucks roamed the land, bringing carne asada and lengua to construction workers, late-night club-dwellers, and hotties with headshots. Their success led to an evolutionary bloom in the trucks, spawning mobile versions of everything from cupcakes to "sushi burritos". Not long ago, real live Southern food joined the ecosystem.