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ISSUE 86: A Place to Root Thumbnail

ISSUE 86: A Place to Root

Carol is known around these parts as “the forest granny,” and she harvests roots for many people, who give her things like eggs and meat in return. “I harvest a little bit of a lot of things, but the ones I harvest are the ones I make use of,” she told me as she dug. Yellowroot is her favorite because it’s the most all-purpose medicinal plant in the mountains.
Department: FOOD
ISSUE 84: The State of the Broth Thumbnail

ISSUE 84: The State of the Broth

Potlikker, the soupy leavings at the bottom of a pot of greens or beans, is now vogue. Perfect Little Bites, a personal chef service in Frederick, Maryland, stirs gin and vermouth with frozen potlikker cubes to chill martinis and infuse the drinks with briny vegetal funk. The restaurant Lower 48, in Denver, fries eggs and tucks them in a bowl of collard green and maitake mushroom potlikker. Travis Grimes at Husk in Charleston serves pork shoulder with crispy belly, smoky butterbeans, rice, and broccoli, swaddled in potlikker broth. When I ate at the Nashville location of that restaurant, the pork came in chops and Morgan McGlone used rapini instead of broccoli, but the potlikker remained. At their recent summer fest, Southern Soul Barbecue in St. Simons Island, Georgia, served green peanuts boiled in collard green potlikker. Upstate at Five and Ten in Athens, Hugh Acheson occasionally poaches mountain trout in boiled peanut potlikker. Inevitably, Acheson calls the broth nutlikker.
Department: FOOD
A New Breed of Beer Makers Thumbnail

A New Breed of Beer Makers

The beer really began to brew a few years ago, but recent legislation has ensured a permanent Texas suds scene. It was a ground-up effort, too.
Department: FOOD


Join the Southern Foodways Alliance on a road trip to Virginia and West Virginia for legendary lunch boxes, small-batch spirits, and country tunes with a side of Appalachian soup beans.
Department: FOOD
Spice World Thumbnail

Spice World

Blenheim is the kind of existential culinary experience that leaves no room for questions. To drink it in less than ideal circumstances—after a poor night’s sleep, for example, or in an imperfect state of concentration—is to invite an aggressive physical reaction, and not just coughing. The sinuses buzz and start. The eyes pour water. The urge to sit is palpable. Taken correctly, on the other hand—with bread and a deep breath—Blenheim feels at times like a religious experience...
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