Look at all these different colors of the flesh!
The first Southern Food issue, published in 2005, was guest edited by THE OXFORD AMERICAN’s food columnist, John T. Edge, who is director of the Southern Foodways Alliance. Edge again is the guest editor of the second Southern Food issue, and now he is a recent James Beard Award winner and also writes the "United Tastes" column for the NEW YORK TIMES.
"For those of us who live to eat, these are hopeful times," Edge writes in his guest editor's note.
Tweets Pete Wells, NEW YORK TIMES dining editor: "Jack Pendarvis on chicken-on-a-stick in Oxford American is funniest food writing in ages. It's not online; buy or steal a magazine."
THE OXFORD AMERICAN's 2010 Southern Food issue attempts to gaze past mere nostalgia and onto a new horizon of Southern cuisine. Amidst the South's changing economic and cultural landscapes, THE OA's contributing writers reflect on past cooking traditions and take stock of new trends for a better understanding of our connection to food and the people and places that cultivate it.
Highlights in the issue include: the food critic Todd Kliman on the trail of Peter Chang, an elusive Chinese chef whose Szechuan dishes inspire adoration, cross-country pilgrimages, Internet stalking, and other strange behaviors; Atlanta culinary guru John Kessler on three African-American chefs whose haute soul cuisine blends old and new traditions and breaks unspoken barriers; Diane Roberts’s testimonial to the perfect cake; Lolis Eric Elie on the controversial subject of Creole cuisine’s heritage; Jack Hitt’s taste-test of homemade beef jerky from around the South; Beth Ann Fennelly on eating ... dirt; and Brett Anderson’s profile of a white sushi savant in Texas. The Southern Food issue also debuts "The OA Manual of Good Taste," a collection of insightful pieces to inform the curious gastronome about the South’s new best-kept secrets, like Nashville chocolate, MoonPie-flavored beer, and some of the most delectable on-the-go Southern meals in Southern California.
In the NEW YORK TIMES's "Diner's Journal" blog, Sam Sifton praises the issue's art and writing: "Looking at all these, and reading all that prose, gets us drawling, slows us down. Might be time for a drive around in the dusk. We’ll raise a can of beer out of the driver’s side window to Larry Brown, to Barry Hannah, to the whole notion of a South worth writing about, and eating."